The Calico Printers' Association Ltd was established in Manchester through the amalgamation of 46 textile printing companies and 13 textile merchants in 1899, in reaction to increased competition within the textile printing market and a decline in quality of goods and profit margins for manufacturers and wholesalers. The amalgamation was an attempt to preserve the tradition and standing of calico printing and to produce textiles of a high standard at reasonable prices. At the time of its inception, the company accounted for 80% of the printed cloth produced in Britain. The company's first chairman was F F Grafton, and the headquarters were located on Charlotte Street, Manchester. The company moved to more suitable premises in Mosley Street, Manchester, and in 1912 built the St James' Buildings on Oxford Street, Manchester. The company also had premises on Princess Street, Manchester, where designers from some of the individual producers represented by the Calico Printers' Association had design studios.
As well as representing manufacturers of printed cloth, the Calico Printers' Association engaged in research and development of textiles, including the development of polyethylene terephthalate in 1941, manufactured as Terylene by ICI and now known as PET.
By the 1950s, the company had expanded its operations to include spinning, weaving, merchanting, finishing, making-up, and wholesale and retail distribution of textiles, textile engineering, and the manufacture and distribution of chemicals.
The company merged with the English Sewing Cotton Company in 1968, and became part of a new organisation, English Calico Ltd.
In 1802, James Coats (1774-1857), a weaver from Paisley, Scotland, established the business that would become J & P Coats Ltd, thread manufacturers. Entering into partnership with fellow manufacturer James Whyte, together they virtually cornered the market in Canton Crape. In 1826 Coats began producing his own thread. In 1830, the management of the manufacturing department and the thread business were passed to Coats’ partners and his sons, the firm becoming known as J & P Coats. The company expanded rapidly during the 1830s, both at home and overseas.
In 1883, the firm became a private joint stock company of family shareholders and in 1890 the business was floated as a public company. In 1896, J & P Coats amalgamated with Clark & Co of Paisley and its American associates, as well as with Brook of Meltham and Chadwick of Eagley Mills, Bolton, England, to form the enlarged firm of J & P Coats Ltd, headquartered in Glasgow.
The company continued to expand throughout the first half of the 20th century by acquiring controlling interests in several other textile companies. By 1912 it was one of the largest listed companies in the world.
Following the takeover of Patons & Baldwins Ltd in 1960, the company became known as J & P Coats, Paton & Baldwin Ltd. In 1965, they acquired a controlling interest in the Pasolds group, which included Ladybird children's wear, Donbros knitwear, and Chilprufe garments. In 1967, they acquired Dynacast Precision Engineering and Jaeger fashions, and the company became known as Coats Patons Ltd.
Coats Viyella was formed in 1986 after the acquisition of Coats Paton by Vantona Viyella (Previously Carrington Viyella and Viyella International Ltd). The company was a textiles business with over 40 factories and at one point was one of the largest in the UK.
In 1987 Coats Viyella acquired Youghal Carpets of Co. Cork. Tootal Group plc was acquired by the company in 1991 and in 1995 the company acquired Bace Manufacturing. In 1999 the company sold its engineering business, Dynacast, which made zip fasteners and plastic components for razors and for cars, to Cinven, leaving the valuation of the rest of the group at virtually nothing. From this Coats Viyella took over its rival Hicking Pentecost, which owned Barbour Threads.
In 2000 Coats Viyella withdrew from the clothing industry. Viyella is now a fashion brand for clothes and home furnishings. In 2001 the company changed its name to Coats Plc. It was acquired by the Guinness Peat Group in 2003, the company was delisted, and its manufacturing base moved East. The company launched new products and services, including a colour sampling service, and entered the fibre optics market.
In 2015 Coats Group re-entered the London Stock Exchange. The acquisition of services firm GSD followed. 2016 saw the company acquire software company Fast React Systems and Gotex, a manufacturer of high-performance materials. Expansion continued in 2017, as Coats acquired Patrick Yarn Mills, an American manufacturer of high-performance engineered yarns.
Date
1929-1968
Scope and ContentSeries of records from the Calico Printers Association (CPA) relating to the research and development of Terylene, licensing from ICI, legal actions taken against patent infringement and legal action between the CPA and British Celanese Limited, including scientific reports, correspondence, patent records, legal documents and business papers.
Extent1.3 linear metres
Physical descriptionFair
LanguageEnglish
Archival historyThe files were salvaged by Mike Topham, Head of Research & Development at the Calico Printers Association/Tootal Broadhurst Lee, in 1984 and were eventually transferred to Coates Viyella Plc. They were rescued again from a skip at Coates Viyella by Mike Lawford who transferred them to the Swinton offices of the company. A former employee of Tootal Broadhurst Lee, Rex Collins, contacted Coates Viyella in early 1998 to secure the future of the records. Coates Viyella's Head of Secretariat contacted the Museum of Science and Industry in February 1998 to offer the files as a gift.
The Calico Printers' Association Ltd was established in Manchester through the amalgamation of 46 textile printing companies and 13 textile merchants in 1899, in reaction to increased competition within the textile printing market and a decline in quality of goods and profit margins for manufacturers and wholesalers. The amalgamation was an attempt to preserve the tradition and standing of calico printing and to produce textiles of a high standard at reasonable prices. At the time of its inception, the company accounted for 80% of the printed cloth produced in Britain. The company's first chairman was F F Grafton, and the headquarters were located on Charlotte Street, Manchester. The company moved to more suitable premises in Mosley Street, Manchester, and in 1912 built the St James' Buildings on Oxford Street, Manchester. The company also had premises on Princess Street, Manchester, where designers from some of the individual producers represented by the Calico Printers' Association had design studios.
As well as representing manufacturers of printed cloth, the Calico Printers' Association engaged in research and development of textiles, including the development of polyethylene terephthalate in 1941, manufactured as Terylene by ICI and now known as PET.
By the 1950s, the company had expanded its operations to include spinning, weaving, merchanting, finishing, making-up, and wholesale and retail distribution of textiles, textile engineering, and the manufacture and distribution of chemicals.
The company merged with the English Sewing Cotton Company in 1968, and became part of a new organisation, English Calico Ltd.
Tootal Broadhurst Lee Company Limited became a limited liability company in 1888. The partnership consisted of Sir Joseph C Lee, Henry Tootal Broadhurst, Henry Lee, Edward Tootal Broadhurst, Harold Lee and Dr Lennox Lee. The company was formed out of the old company of Tootal, Broadhurst, Lee and Co and Lee Spinning Company.
In 1963 Tootal joined the English Sewing Cotton Company, which had been incorporated on the 16th July 1897 a change of name was further registered on the 24th May 1968 when the company became known as English Calico Ltd before eventually becoming known as Tootal Limited, on the 15th June 1973 becoming a plc in 1985 and known as Tootal Group Plc
The group was acquired by Coats Viyella Plc in 1991.
Conditions governing ReproductionCopies may be supplied in accordance with current copyright legislation and Science Museum Group terms and conditions.
System of arrangementThe arrangement follows the order of the file boxes in which the records were kept at Coates Viyella. As Coates Viyella is not the originator of the files, it is not clear whether this is an arrangement imposed by them or inherited from Tootal Broadhurst Lee.
